Christmas Past (the last one, that is) and the Food & Drink We Put Away
It was a very different kind of Christmas - household cooks will know that more than most. That vast annual feast - the one big meal which requires more time, money, love and attention than any other - was probably not as grand or extensive in 2020. And there was a slight irony at play…
A winter mean from Chunk Pies
While the Government advises that we do the “right thing” - which means we home-cooks prepared a lot less food this Christmas - it is also a fact that the Covid pandemic has seen more Brits cooking at home than at any other time over the past 30 years.
A survey published last week revealed that, since the coronavirus pandemic began, UK householders have been spending up to 21 more hours each week preparing food.
Almost two thirds (63%) of Brits are cooking meals from scratch on a more regular basis rather than purchasing ready meals or takeaways.
Of those who said they were doing more cooking now, four out of five spend at least an hour more each day preparing meals, whilst almost one fifth (18%) said they were cooking for two to three hours more each day. In many households that equates to an extra 14 to 21 hours each week.
The research was carried by the Stilton Cheese Makers Association (SCMA) in a timely push for some festive publicity. And why not? A good stilton is one of Britain’s greatest culinary treats and, for many of us, an essential part of the festivities.
From the perspective of the stilton fraternity (actually, from all of ours) the really good news is that two thirds of UK consumers say they’ve been “much more likely” to buy British in support of our farmers during the pandemic. More than half the respondents said they were more likely to buy British cheese instead of French or Italian. Indeed, nearly a quarter said they’d been consuming a lot more cheese since the pandemic started.
So blessed are the cheesemakers. My pal Greg Parsons at the Sharpham Dairy must be delighted by such news - and quite rightly - his cheeses are every bit as good, if not better than, a host of French products of the same ilk.
Greg Parson (left) goes seaweed hunting for the latest in the Sharpham Cheese range
So, with Brexit to take into consideration, actively supporting our local cheesemakers and other producers this winter really does make an awful lot of sense.
Which, in a way, brings us to the core of this article’s theme. If we’re going to be doing a lot less actual cooking over the festive period because of the reduction in guests, why not really sit back, put your feet up, and allow this region’s producers take the strain?
To take cheese as one example, a West Country selection purchased from specialist retail outlets such as Devon’s Country Cheeses (or from award-winning all-round outlets like Dart’s Farm) can wonderfully bolster a Christmas table with hardly any effort on the part of the home-cook.
All you need do is add some top-of-the-range savoury biscuits or crackers and a selection of West Country produced chutneys or pickles from the likes of Waterhouse Fayre, where the team make a really good range (I can recommend the Exmoor Pondweed Chutney which is a lot nicer than it may sound). Or try Otter Vale (gluten-free preserves, savoury jellies, mustards and more, with no artificial colours, flavourings or preservatives), or look at the jars of wonder made by Ivybridge’s The Bay Tree, which produces more than 150 delicious products.
If a good cheese selection is a first class way of rounding off any meal, why not go the whole hog, so to speak, and buy in a range of locally-produced wonders for your entire Christmas feast?
I can think of no better way of starting any festive meal for a handful of people than turning to my old friends at Brown and Forrest, the small Somerset smokery established 38 years ago on The Levels. Jess and his team produce what many believe to be Britain’s finest smoked eel, alongside some of the nation’s best smoked salmon, as well as a whole range of other smoky foods including smoked chicken, duck, lamb and trout.
Hot smoked salmon at Forrest and Brown
With the starter sorted, what about something simple but delicious for a main course?
My colleague at RAW, Harry Wild, says: “Why not simply chuck a round of pies in the oven for a delicious, hands-off Christmas dinner? Chunk of Devon are double winners of Britain’s Best Pasty, so they know their way around pastry. They have won numerous awards for their vegetarian and vegan pies, as well as their classic meat range. Perfect for everyone in the family. Available with nationwide delivery with free postage and packaging: chunkofdevon.co.uk."
Another of my RAW colleagues likes the idea of a whopping great big all-West Country toad-in-the-hole. “I’ve just made one using Westaways sausages, Matthews Cotswold Flour and Trewithen Dairy whole milk - it was fun to make and it was delicious,” says Hanna China.
Westaways sausages
Because of the reduction in guest-numbers, the Hesp household opted for the classic Christmas dinner, but with a goose rather than the usual giant turkey. I have desired a festive goose for decades but, as I normally feed 14 to 16 people on December 25, that option has always been beyond the scope of my standard domestic oven. You’d need two such ovens to cook a brace of geese (which is the amount of goose you’d need to feed a dozen-plus people) - but one appliance can just about cope with a monster-sized turkey.
So this year I took what I hope will be my one and only the opportunity to grab a Christmas goose.
And I’ll be following that up with one of Trewithen Dairy’s “topsy-turvy” trifles, with the jelly upside down on top of the custard. They are quick and simple to make, but you must make sure your custard is thick enough to set so that it can withstand the weight of the jelly on top (see recipe below).
The good times - the party-times - will return. This year, however, why not let the cook in your household sit back and take it easy…
RECIPE
Trewithen Dairy’s festive topsy turvy trifles - for six people…
INGREDIENTS
For the jelly
350g frozen raspberries
4 tbsp caster sugar
2 leaves gelatine
For the trifles
24 amaretti biscuits
6 tbsp Amaretto
6 canned pear halves, in syrup, drained
36 raspberries
400g can custard
200g Trewithen Dairy clotted cream(Use any fruit - strawberries, mango, blackberries – just ensure you have 300ml of fruit puree to 2 leaves of gelatine for the jelly.)
For the jelly, soak the gelatine in a bowl of cold water for 5 minutes until soft. Place frozen raspberries in a pan with sugar and cook over a medium heat until defrosted. Bring to the boil stirring, then remove from heat.
Tip raspberries into the bowl of a food processor and blitz to a puree, then pass through a sieve to remove seeds, into a heatproof jug. Squeeze any excess liquid out of the gelatine leaves then add to the raspberry puree and stir until dissolved. Leave to cool until just beginning to set but still pourable.
For the trifles, crush 3 Amaretti biscuits into the base of 6 wine or water glasses. Pour 1 tbsp Amaretto into each glass.
Roughly chop the drained pears and divide them evenly between the 6 glasses. Add 6 raspberries to each glass and using a teaspoon or clean fingers, push the fruit to the sides of the glass so you can see it once you add the custard. Sprinkle 1 crushed Amaretti biscuit into each glass.
Spoon the custard evenly between 6 glasses then, once the jelly has cooled and is beginning to thicken, pour it over the custard and place the glasses in the fridge.
Chill for at least 1 hour, or assemble ahead and chill until ready to serve.
To serve, spoon a large dollop of clotted cream over the set jelly.
New Year’s Booze
Show me a Christmas without liquid refreshment and I will show you a festivity that isn’t festive. Of course, we must remain sensible - no good using booze to curb the sadness of not seeing loved ones this one crazy year. But, we need liquid refreshment whether it contains alcohol or not - so here’s a shortlist of West Country based drinks that reaches parts that others might not…
Cove Vodka
Made from 100% King Edwards potatoes grown on a family farm overlooking beautiful Hope Cove in South Devon. Apart from the pure vodka, the company produces delicious Damson Liqueur and cocktail making kits which are ideal for drinks parties over zoom or great gifts for any drinks lovers.
Luscombe Drinks
The ultimate in non-alcoholic treats - organic vegan soft drinks and mixers. Hot Ginger Beer is a wonderful alternative to ale, while pale pink Damascene Rose Bubbly is a refreshing champagne substitute for the non-drinkers. Luscombe has just launched a Ginger Beer presentation pack (£12.99) a great stocking filler for the non-drinker.
Two Drifters Rum
From the world’s first carbon negative rum distillery (in Devon) delicious Spiced Rum is the perfect festive tipple with Luscombe Cool Ginger Beer, ice and a squeeze of lime. (RRP £40). Miniature Rum gift sets are available. Two Drifters is now listed in John Lewis, Virgin Wines and all products available for nationwide delivery from their website.
Sharpham Wine
With almost more prestigious awards than can be counted, one of the West Country’s best known wineries has been making the good stuff for more than 35 years. Ideal for those special Christmas occasions - Sharpham Pinot Noir or zesty new Sharpham Pinot Gris Wild Ferment. The company is selling cheese and wine hampers with neighbouring Sharpham Cheese.
Salcombe Gin
The South Devon company’s gins have won some of the biggest awards on the international scene - and they’ve just launched an extraordinary product called Seamist, which is “a liquid garnish” - literally puff a couple of squirts of it across your glass of G&T and prepare to be wowed. For non-drinkers the company also makes New London Light - a 0% spirit which has the hit and mouthfeel of the real thing.
Salcombe Brewery
Among its many excellent ales the brewery is now selling its Island Street Porter… “An award winning, hand crafted, rich, velvety porter created from a blend of eight malts which produce hints of dark chocolate, coffee and black cherry which combined with British hops, create an aroma reminiscent of Black Forest gateaux.”
Blue Goose Coffee
The Exeter-based company prides itself on producing some of the most sustainable, eco-friendly and delicious coffees you can buy. You can buy the speciality, single-origin coffees loose or in certified plastic-free and compostable pods which are compatible with Nespresso® original domestic drop-through coffee machines.
Sharpham Wine workers celebrating award wins
