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Martin Hesp

Rhubarb Rhubarb

Rhubarb Rhubarb

As the winter months subside and spring begins to make itself known, one of nature’s most vibrant and versatile treats emerges in our gardens. With its distinctively tart flavour and striking pink hue, rhubarb has long been a favourite ingredient in both sweet and savoury dishes. 

The pink stalks thrusting skywards in my garden seem to be in particularly fine fettle - which is a kind of miracle given that most plants I grow are instantly eaten by marauding pests. However, everything from tiny slugs to large wild deer seem happy to leave this strange plant well alone - maybe because the leaves contain a concentration of oxalic acid which is, of course, why we humans don’t touch them. 

But now that it’s emerging happily unscathed, what to do with this most seasonal of crops? 

One of the most traditional ways to enjoy rhubarb is, of course, in a classic crumble - and who doesn’t love a crumble? The combination of the tender, tangy rhubarb with a sweet, buttery crumble topping, seems to create a perfect balance of flavours and textures. 

But this year I might also go down the rhubarb chutney route. The tangy, sweet, and slightly spicy concoction pairs wonderfully with roasted meats, cheeses, and sandwiches. It can also be used as a glaze for grilled chicken or pork, adding an unexpected and zingy burst of flavour to many a meal.

We should regard the arrival of rhubarb in early spring as a true culinary delight. Its unique flavour and versatility make it a very useful ingredient in a wide range of dishes, from comforting desserts to tangy chutneys. I have ignored the delights of this pest-defying garden hero for too long - I will not be doing so this weekend. Here’s a recipe an American friend sent me…

Sweet and Tangy Rhubarb Pickle

Prep time: 15 minutes Cook time: 20 minutes Rest time: 1 week

Ingredients:

  • 4 cups fresh rhubarb, chopped into 1/2-inch pieces

  • 1 cup apple cider vinegar

  • 1 cup granulated sugar

  • 1/2 cup water

  • 1/2 cup red onion, thinly sliced

  • 2 cloves garlic, minced

  • 1 tablespoon fresh ginger, grated

  • 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional, for heat)

  • 1/2 teaspoon whole mustard seeds

  • 1/2 teaspoon whole coriander seeds

  • 1/4 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

  • 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

  • 1 bay leaf

Instructions:

  1. In a medium-sized saucepan, combine apple cider vinegar, sugar, water, red onion, garlic, ginger, red pepper flakes (if using), mustard seeds, coriander seeds, black peppercorns, salt, and bay leaf. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally to dissolve the sugar.

  2. Once the mixture has come to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and let it simmer for 10 minutes. This will allow the flavors to meld and the spices to release their essential oils.

  3. Add the chopped rhubarb to the saucepan, and gently stir to coat the rhubarb in the pickling liquid. Simmer for another 5-7 minutes, or until the rhubarb is just tender but still retains its shape. Be careful not to overcook the rhubarb, as it can become mushy.

  4. Remove the saucepan from heat and let the mixture cool to room temperature.

  5. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the rhubarb and onions into clean glass jars, leaving about 1/2-inch headspace from the top of the jar. Pour the pickling liquid over the rhubarb, ensuring that it is fully submerged.

  6. Seal the jars with airtight lids and store in the refrigerator for at least one week before consuming. This allows the rhubarb to absorb the flavours of the pickling liquid and develop a pleasant, tangy taste.

  7. Enjoy your sweet and tangy rhubarb pickle as a condiment with cheese and crackers, in salads, or as a side dish with grilled meats. The pickle will keep in the refrigerator for up to one month.

Notes:

  • To ensure food safety, use clean, sterilized jars and lids for storage.

  • For a sweeter pickle, increase the sugar by 1/4 cup.

  • Feel free to experiment with different spices, such as adding whole allspice berries or a cinnamon stick for a unique flavour profile.

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