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Martin Hesp

St Moritz, the Engadine, Switzerland

St Moritz, the Engadine, Switzerland

On a few very lucky occasions I have visited St Moritz in the Engadine region of eastern Switzerland, and found myself thinking how fortunate the very rich are to be able to visit such a place on a regular basis. Actually, my interest lay in discovering the many natural attributes of the magical Inn Valley – and I did that both by train, by funicular railway, by cable-car and on foot. 

St Moritz on an autumn day

But let’s stay in the area around the famous old ski town for the purposes of this article. Some hamlets up on the slopes away from the ski-pistes haven’t changed a jot since 1864. That’s when Johannes Badrutt made a wager with four British summer guests – and it was this one bet that would change St Moritz and take it down the expensive-exclusive road. 

Bottom end of the lake at St Moritz

Badrutt had built the resort’s first large hotel, primarily for summer guests who liked to come to the high mountains for the scenery and the clean fresh air. Not surprisingly he wanted his investment better used – which is why he suggested to the four wealthy Brits that they should return in winter. If the clear crisp snowy scenes were not to their liking, Badrutt said he’d underwrite every penny of their return trip from London. If, however, they fell in love with the winter wonderland, he’d invite them to stay as his guests for as long as they wished.

It was an effective ploy. They adored the place – and why not? Apart from being stunningly beautiful, the area enjoys sunshine more than 300 days a year. The wealthy Brits had the time of their lives and went back home singing St Moritz’s wintry praises from London’s dark dank rooftops. 

The rest is winter-sport history. By 1864, St. Moritz was on the map as a winter wonderland. This bold experiment laid the groundwork for what would become a thriving winter sports industry. The town went on to host the Winter Olympics twice, in 1928 and 1948, cementing its status as a premier destination for winter sports enthusiasts worldwide. The first European Ice-Skating Championships were held at St. Moritz in 1882, the first bob run in 1890 and the first ski school in Switzerland was established here in 1929.

The allure of St. Moritz is not just in its sports facilities but also in its ability to blend luxury with tradition. The town is dotted with top-tier resorts, spas, and gourmet restaurants, offering a world-class experience. The local culture is rich with traditions such as the "White Turf" horse races, held on the frozen Lake St. Moritz, offering a spectacle of elegance and thrill.

Top end of the lake at St Moritz

Art and culture flourish here as well. The town hosts various festivals and events throughout the year, including the St. Moritz Art Masters and the British Classic Car Meeting. Moreover, the Engadine's stunning natural beauty has inspired countless artists and writers, including the philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche, who spent seven summers here.

Hesp enjoying life in mountains above St Moritz

Today, the town remains a blend of innovation and tradition. Its commitment to sustainability is evident in its infrastructure and services, ensuring that the beauty of the Engadine Valley can be preserved for future generations. This commitment, coupled with its historic charm and modern luxury, ensures that St. Moritz remains a beacon for travelers seeking the ultimate alpine experience.

Bernina Express

Bernina Express

Hesp Out West - an Introduction

Hesp Out West - an Introduction