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Martin Hesp

Why Denmark Is So Happy – And Why Aarhus Might Be Europe’s City of Smiles

Why Denmark Is So Happy – And Why Aarhus Might Be Europe’s City of Smiles

Discovering the Danish Happiness Factor

Year after year, Denmark ranks near the top of the World Happiness Report, a global survey examining wellbeing across 140+ countries. In the most recent rankings, Denmark came second only to Finland, while the UK landed a less cheerful 23rd. But why? What makes this cool, windy, northern European nation so content?

As mentioned in last week's feature on Skagen’s artist colony, I decided to explore the question of Danish happiness further, especially while visiting Aarhus, the nation’s second city and a place often dubbed the City of Smiles.

Is Aarhus Really One of the Happiest Places in Europe?

Absolutely. I’d go so far as to say Aarhus was one of the happiest places I’ve ever visited. In fact, I even mentioned in a post that I wouldn't mind living there – quite a statement coming from someone who usually avoids cities.

Aarhus summer street scene

From the moment we arrived during a sunny heatwave and headed out for dinner, we were surrounded by crowds of cheerful people filling the city’s intricate streets. The vibe was unmistakable: joyful, relaxed, and welcoming.

Boutique Charm at Hotel Villa Provence

Our base was the charming Hotel Villa Provence, one of the best boutique hotels in Denmark. With fans like Sandi Toksvig and recent guest Sting, this French-inspired retreat offers stylish rooms, courtyard charm, and a renowned organic breakfast. Located right in the city centre, it's an oasis of calm in a vibrant town.

lounge at the Villa Provence, Aarhus

Dining Happiness in the Latin Quarter

That first evening, dinner at Restaurant Mefisto added to our joy. Tucked into the lively Latin Quarter, the menu offered standout dishes like white asparagus in vibrant sauce and roasted monkfish cheeks – simple, honest and utterly delicious.

Exploring a Walkable and Youthful City

Aarhus is a walkable city filled with life, partly thanks to its large student population. Guided by the excellent Anne Margrethe, I explored both the cobbled charm of the Latin Quarter and the newly developed waterfront district.

The modern Aarhus Ø Lighthouse – Denmark’s tallest building at 468 feet – provides a panoramic view of the city, harbour, and surrounding fjords, accessible via a high-speed lift.

Aarhus Ø Lighthouse

Street Food and Sensible Spending

Aarhus may be in expensive Denmark, but smart spending and local insight can make it surprisingly affordable. We lunched at the vibrant Aarhus Street Food Centre, housed in an old bus station and offering over 30 kitchens and bars. My Mexican meal cost just over £10.

Across from our hotel, we found excellent happy hour beer for £3.50 a pint – a far cry from the £10 price tag tourists fear.

Happy hour pint in Aarhus

Must-See: ARoS Art Museum and the Old Town Museum

The ARoS Museum of Art is one of Scandinavia’s top galleries, famous for its rooftop "Rainbow Panorama". This summer's exhibition, “Picasso, Miró, Léger and the Many Voices of Modernism”, is not to be missed.

ARoS Art Museum

Nearby, the extraordinary Den Gamle By (The Old Town Museum) is a living open-air museum that recreates Danish life from 1600 to the 1970s. Its immersive experience brings history to life through authentic architecture and period settings.

Roberta’s Society – A New Cultural Concept

Roberta’s Society, interior

One of our favourite surprises was dinner at Roberta’s Society, a newly opened hybrid space in a former 1930s library. With options from communal dorms to deluxe rooms, live music, yoga, talks, and communal meals, it’s a modern social hub. And yes, the pork chop sandwich was delicious – and affordable at £10.

Roberta’s Society inexpensive food

Experiencing Danish Hygge in Aarhus

You’ll often hear the term hygge in Denmark – a concept of comfort, conviviality, and contentment. You can feel it everywhere in Aarhus, from cosy corners in museums to shared laughter on sunny streets.

If I had to describe Aarhus in just two words, they’d be comfortable conviviality – the very essence of hygge, and perhaps, the secret to Danish happiness.

Planning Your Trip to Aarhus

With direct flights from Stansted to Aarhus (approx. 1h 45min via Ryanair), this happy city is an easy weekend escape.

Fact File: Visiting Aarhus

  • ARoS Museum of Art: 5 galleries + Rainbow Panorama | Tickets: ~£22

  • Den Gamle By (Old Town Museum): Experience 17th–20th century Danish life | Tickets: ~£23.50 | Allow 4–5 hours

  • Hotel Villa Provence: Boutique stay in city centre | Rooms from £230/night

  • Flights: Direct from London Stansted to Aarhus (Ryanair)

  • Street Food: Aarhus Street Food Centre – 30+ kitchens in an old bus terminal

  • Budget Tip: Happy hour beers for £3.50, wine for £5/glass

  • Roberta’s Society: Midweek 2-night stay for two: £90 | Dorm beds from £20

Voyage on Sea Cloud Spirit, Naples to Valetta via Sicily

Voyage on Sea Cloud Spirit, Naples to Valetta via Sicily