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Martin Hesp

Coastal Cuisine in Skagen: Northern Denmark’s Fresh Approach to Food

Coastal Cuisine in Skagen: Northern Denmark’s Fresh Approach to Food

Northern Denmark, particularly around Skagen, offers a straightforward approach to food.

It's a region where the proximity to the sea heavily influences what's on the plate, with fresh catches forming the backbone of many meals. The Skagen harbour area itself is a hub for seafood. Restaurants here often occupy the old, red-painted fish warehouses, maintaining a connection to the town's fishing heritage. You can expect to find establishments where the daily catch is the star, sometimes served simply grilled or fried, allowing the freshness of the fish to dominate. The atmosphere tends to be informal, reflecting the working harbour just outside the windows.

Skagen Fiskerestaurant: A Harbourside Staple of Danish Seafood

Skagen Fiskerestaurant is a notable example among these harbourside venues. It's known for its direct relationship with the sea, offering dishes that frequently feature whatever the boats have brought in. The appeal here lies in the unpretentious presentation of quality seafood, served in a setting that evokes the maritime history of the town, often with sand on the floors to enhance the connection to the beach.

Brøndums Hotel: Tradition and Taste in the Heart of Skagen

Brøndums Hotel, a fixture in Skagen, serves as an example of this tradition.

Brøndums Hotel

The kitchen tends to focus on well-prepared local ingredients, served in a classic style. You're likely to find fish dishes, perhaps a pan-fried plaice or a classic herring preparation.

plaice at Brøndums Hotel

I enjoyed a truly superb 5-course tasting menu. It’s an opportunity to taste the region’s bounty in a setting that acknowledges its history.

Ruth’s Hotel: Seasonal Danish Food with Coastal Character

Ruth’s Hotel, another establishment in the area, operates with a similar philosophy but with its own distinct character.

my excellent steat at Ruth’s Hotel

The focus remains on Danish culinary traditions, often with an emphasis on seasonality. Their offerings might include variations on open-faced sandwiches (smørrebrød) featuring locally sourced toppings, or main courses that highlight the day's catch from the nearby waters. I enjoyed one of the best Bloody Marys I’ve ever had at the hotel one evening and a truly superb steak.

Sea-bass at Ruth’s Hotel, Skagen

Bloody Mary with an oyster at Riuth’s Hotel

Sømærket: Wine, Cider, and Local Atmosphere in Skagen

For those seeking a drink beyond the usual, Sømærket, a wine and cider bar, provides an alternative. It’s a place where you can explore a curated selection of beverages. But what really stood out for me was the Danish craft cider. I asked the question: “Cider bar? Why cider? I have never seen it in Denmark and didn’t know it was a Danish thing?” After which we spent a highly informative and delicious hour talking with a young man called Karl-Emil Sams, who leases the place from Ruth’s and who owns another restaurant in the main town. Cider might not be a Danish thing quite yet, but soon will be. The country is at the very beginning of a cider boom. 

Karl-Emil Sams

Karl-Emil Sams

“Denmark has always been known for is lager style beer, but some of us started looking at all the different apple varieties that grow here. There are literally hundreds and some are sharp and not really edible - so a few of us started trying to make cider with them.”

light lunch at Sømærket, a wine and cider bar

Light lunch at Sømærket, a wine and cider bar

With that Karl-Emil poured me a glass of fizzing amber liquid he’d made with his brother, and it was fantastic. So good, it would definitely win prizes at major UK cider competitions. 

cider at Sømærket, a wine and cider bar

Blink Restaurant: A Contemporary Take on Local Ingredients

Matilde Grue of aptly named Blink

Matilde Grue of aptly named Blink restaurant

Blink restaurant is another spot contributing to the area's food landscape. The approach of woner and chef Matilde Grue is about taking very basic seasonal ingredients and presenting them in a contemporary way. While rooted in local produce, there's a visible effort to move beyond the most traditional preparations, offering a fresh perspective on Danish cooking. We had some of the best fishcakes I’ve ever tasted there. .

Matilde Grue fishcakes at Blink

Matilde Grue’s fishcakes

Chef Ronni Sørensen at Plesner Hotel: Balanced Nordic Flavours

Martin Hesp with Chef Ronni Sørensen

Chef Ronni Sørensen with Martin, Plesner Hotel

The Plesner Hotel, in conjunction with chef Ronni Sørensen, adds another dimension. We stayed at the excellent Plesner right in the heart of town and I was able to enjoy quite a few chats with the amiable Ronni, who used to be a fisherman working out of the harbour a stone's throw away before he became a chef. It was a good move. He is very talented.

starter snacks at the Plesner Hotel

Ronni Sørensen's work often involves a considered approach to ingredients, combining elements that speak to both the land and the sea. His dishes are less about dramatic innovation and more about finding a balance in flavour and texture, allowing the quality of the raw materials to come through. It's an example of how a chef can interpret regional ingredients without resorting to complex culinary theatrics.

Excellent, good value menu at the Plesner Hotel

Final Thoughts: Skagen’s Culinary Identity Is Rooted in the Local

Dining in Northern Denmark, especially around Skagen, is largely about a direct engagement with what the local environment provides. It's an experience grounded in the ingredients, prepared with an eye towards straightforward presentation and flavour.

dunes at Skagen
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Cornwall's Hidden Gem: The Helford River, its Timeless Charm and the Budock Vean

Mastering Fish Cookery with Annie Seabourne at My Fish Kitchen in Cornwall

Mastering Fish Cookery with Annie Seabourne at My Fish Kitchen in Cornwall