Cornwall's Hidden Gem: The Helford River, its Timeless Charm and the Budock Vean

Budock Vean Hotel and the Helford River Area

Every region has special corners where geography and landscape combine to make things just a little bit more lovely than elsewhere, and this article is all about one such place. The area around the Helford River really is one of the jewels in Cornwall’s crown.

Ferry at Helford Passage

What Is a Ria? Cornwall’s Unique River Valleys

All Cornwall’s rias are scenic—a ria, as you’ll know, being a flooded river valley rather than a tidal estuary in the normal sense. Both South Devon and Cornwall are notable for their rias, which generally occur along rugged coastlines, formed by sea-level rises after the last Ice Age. The main clue, if you’re looking for a ria, is that although they can be extensive in themselves, they are rarely formed by large rivers.

Frenchman’s Creek is part of the Helford River

Gweek and the Scenic Helford Shoreline

At the village of Gweek, for example, you’ll find quite a modest stream flowing into the tidal zone—nowhere near big enough to create the expansive fjord-like area that has nearly 25 miles of shoreline. A very beautiful shoreline, it is too, as anyone who has ever read Daphne du Maurier’s Frenchman’s Creek will imagine.

Frenchman’s Creek: A Walk Through Literary and Natural History

This particular creek runs north-south, at right-angles to the main Helford River, and is a wonderful place to explore either by foot or by small boat—see the panel below for a description of the hike you can do around it.

Entrance to Frenchman’s Creek

When the tide is high, Cornwall’s rias tend to have an Amazonian look about them. Thick woodlands line many of the banks and their branches and leaves hang low over the water. This gives a waterway like the Helford an altogether secretive and intimate feel that you will not see in large-river estuaries such as the Severn, Exe, Torridge or Taw.

Where to Stay: Classic Comfort at the Budock Vean Hotel

The Budock Vean Hotel

All special areas ought to have a special place in which to stay, and the Helford has just that… It comes in the form of the wonderful Budock Vean Hotel, where I was lucky enough to rest my weary head while attending the excellent fish-cookery classes at Annie Seabourne’s My Fish Kitchen, featured last week.

The Budock Vean is a classic and first-class example of its kind. By which I mean a largish countryside hotel set in beautiful grounds where a high level of service is guaranteed. I’ve been fortunate enough to stay there on three occasions and have never been disappointed. In fact, under its new ownership I’d say that it’s better than ever.

“Nestled” is a word I no longer use because if you ask AI to write about something set in a landscape it will immediately reach for the “n” word. However, the Budock Vean really is nestled within its lovely grounds. To get a sense of this you can walk down through magnificent gardens to the hotel’s own private cove on the Helford River. It is the sort of place where time seems to slow, not in an overt way, but subtly, as if the pace of the day naturally adjusts to the surroundings.

Budock Vean's grounds reach the water's edge

Dining and History at Budock Vean

Meals are served in a splendid dining room that has views of the garden and the hotel’s own golf course, and the menu focuses on local ingredients. The rooms are spacious and comfortable and the whole place has a homely feel to it, which is exactly what you expect from a better class country-house hotel.

Good food at the Budock Vean

The estate at Budock Vean has a history dating back to medieval times. The current manor house was transformed into a country house hotel and welcomed its first guests in 1933. It quickly gained recognition, attracting a clientele that included figures from the entertainment world. During WWII, it served as a restaurant for US Air Force personnel who were preparing locally for D Day.

In 1987, the Barlow family acquired the hotel, managing it until its recent sale to Philema Hospitality Management, a family-owned company which has its roots in the South West. Their portfolio also includes the Boringdon Hall Hotel in South Devon, as well as the Fistral Beach Hotel and Spa and Esplanade Hotel, both in Newquay.

The Budock Vean’s friendly general manager, Darryl Reburn, took me on a tour of the hotel, outlining some of the exciting plans the company has for the future, and we also visited a couple of the truly luxurious new lodges on the estate. The lovely old place looks set to be welcoming guests for a long time to come, and I hope to be among their number.

Check out https://www.budockvean.co.uk/ – prices from £135, based on a standard room for two people including breakfast.

Panel One: Walk the Literary Path – Frenchman’s Creek

One of the great benefits of staying at the Budock Vean Hotel is that you are spoiled with a choice of lovely walks. One of the easiest and best known takes you to Frenchman’s Creek, although you will have to take the foot-ferry across the Helford Passage.

Pure unabashed, unashamed romanticism—that's the theme of this hike. Frenchman's Creek has more of a novel's atmosphere than any other literary waterside location.

View towards Frenchman’s Creek

If the tide is out the place literally oozes with the stuff of legend. If it’s in, then the shimmering tranquillity allows you to mentally plunge straight into the derring-deeds of Daphne du Maurier's brilliant tale.

There is always something special about arriving at the beginning of a walk by boat, and to my way of thinking the Helford Passage foot-ferry provides a good dose of that sense of magic.

However, Du Maurier was a little less effusive—she wrote:

“Helford hamlet was no inducement to a sailor ashore, the few cottage folk dull-witted and uncommunicative…”

I’d say there is nothing dull-witted about the person who can afford one of those cottages nowadays. A lane leads along the creek, past the pub and picturesque abodes, and eventually crosses a stream at a point close to where a footpath sign points to Manaccan.

We take the track through the trees until a junction allows us to turn right into Under Wood and climb the hill towards the farm called Kestle, an ancient homestead full of character situated on the ridge dividing Helford from the small valley that plays host to Frenchman's Creek.

Du Maurier’s description fits the scene perfectly:

“There once again was the glimmer of water that had surprised her... the creek, still and soundless, shrouded by the trees, hidden from the eyes of men.”

Ferryman will take you across the Helford Passage

The National Trust owns the woods along Frenchman’s Pill up to the creek, and its staff have laid a path along the waterside so we can enjoy its hidden delights. You cannot reach it by road.

Eventually, the path climbs to meet a private drive. Turn right here and follow the road until you see a public footpath sign on your left. This leads down through more Trust-owned woods, ending at Penarvon Cove. Then it’s a short track back to the ferry landing-stage.

Panel Two: Dinner at the Ferry Boat Inn, Helford Passage

Ferry Boat Inn, Helford Passage

One evening when we were staying at the Budock Vean, we strolled down through the lovely grounds to reach the South West Coast Path, which took us up around the golf course and eventually to the Ferry Boat Inn for dinner.

This wonderful old pub is one of my favourites in Cornwall. I can’t put my finger on exactly why, but the historic inn located right down by the waterside in Helford Passage always seems to have a busy and happy vibe.

As a beer-drinker I can vouch that the ale is always very good—and as a food-lover I can say the same about the excellent pub-grub. We had a tasty fritter topped by locally cured trout and sour cream for a starter, followed by a magnificent fillet of Cornish hake and also a dish of “loaded fries” with Philip Warren beef brisket.

As I say, great Cornish pub grub—and just what you need after enjoying one of the area’s many fabulous hikes.