Exploring the South-West Lake District: The Ultimate Scenic Drive

Discover one of the Best Scenic Drives in the Lake District

If you are planning a drive around the south-western reaches of the Lake District - as I was while staying at the amazing and exceptional hotel, The Samling - the following route makes for a thrilling an scenic drive. I started by driving north along Lake Windermere to Ambleside and then turning left on the A593 to head west towards Coniston Water.

I’d recommend taking the lane that hugs the eastern shore of this lake. It’s a far more scenic and rewarding option than the main road that runs along the opposite bank, offering stunning glimpses of the lake through the trees, and occasional pull-ins where you can stop and admire the view. This quiet, winding route sets the tone for what is to come: a journey through some of the wildest, loneliest, and most breathtaking landscapes in England.

The journey begins on Lake Windermere

Journey Through Remote Landscapes

But we must rejoin the A593 and follow it south-west - it will eventually bring you to the tiny hamlet of Lower Hawthwaite, where the real adventure begins. Here, you can turn north onto a network of narrow, twisting lanes that climb into one of the least-visited areas of the Lake District. These lanes are often steep, occasionally rough, and certainly not for the faint-hearted, but the reward is thousands of acres of solitude and a sense of stepping back in time. The land here is rugged, unspoiled, and feels wonderfully remote—ideal for those who want to escape the crowds and experience the Lake District at its wildest.

Wild country in south west Lake District

Stickle Pike and the Vast Wilderness of Ulpha and Birker Fells

From here, the drive over Stickle Pike is nothing short of spectacular. The narrow road clings to the contours of the land, undulating over the hills with breathtaking views at every turn. Soon, you ascend into the vast, empty wilderness of Ulpha and Birker Fells, where the sense of isolation becomes even more profound. This stretch of road, taking you west and then north into Eskdale, is one of the wildest I’ve ever travelled in England. You can drive for miles without seeing another soul, save for the odd shepherd, fell-walker or a few scattered sheep staring at your intrusion into their domain.

Driving Tips for Steep and Narrow Mountain Roads

Before I go any further, a word of warning: if you are a nervous driver or uncomfortable on narrow, steep, and sometimes tricky roads, this is not the route for you. The lane twists and turns unpredictably, often with precipitous drops to one side and no safety barriers to offer reassurance. But for those who are confident behind the wheel , this is a thrilling drive, filled with dramatic scenery and a wonderful sense of remoteness.

Wrynose Pass west

Conquering the Hardknott Pass – One of Britain’s Steepest Roads

Once you’ve made your way down into the valley of Eskdale, the landscape softens slightly, though it remains gloriously rugged. The river Esk meanders through a broad valley, flanked by steep hillsides and dotted with charming old farmsteads. It’s a beautiful place, and in summer, you might be tempted to pause for a picnic beside the river or even a paddle in its clear, cold waters. But the real challenge lies ahead: the infamous Hardknott Pass.

Snow near the top of Wrynose Pass

Driving east from Eskdale, the road suddenly begins to climb, and before you know it, you’re tackling one of the steepest and most treacherous roads in Britain. This is not a route for the underpowered car or the faint-hearted driver. With gradients reaching 33% (or 1 in 3 in old money), this is about as steep as roads get in this country, and there are hairpin bends that require both skill and solid nerves. I’ve driven some tough roads in my time, but this is up with the most challenging. For Mrs Hesp, who was gripping the seat with white knuckles as we crested the icy summit in January, it was an unforgettable (if slightly terrifying) experience.

Wrynose Pass east

Superb Views from Wrynose Pass and Little Langdale

If you survive the ascent, the descent is no less thrilling, dropping steeply into the deep valley of Wrynose Bottom, where for a moment, the landscape feels almost Alpine in its grandeur. But don’t get too comfortable—almost immediately, you’re climbing again, this time over the Wrynose Pass. While slightly less steep and intimidating than Hardknott, it still demands full concentration, particularly if you meet another vehicle on the way up. Despite the challenges, it’s an absolutely stunning drive, rewarding you at every turn with views that stretch for miles over the fells.

Little Langdale

By the time you descend Wrynose Pass, you will have covered some of the most exhilarating and remote miles in England, but the landscape now begins to soften. As the road winds into Little Langdale, the ruggedness gives way to a more pastoral charm. Here, the fields are greener, the valleys more sheltered, and the roads slightly easier to navigate.

Passing Skelwith Bridge, you soon find yourself entering the delightful town of Ambleside, a place that feels almost bustling after the wild terrain you’ve just conquered. With its welcoming pubs, outdoor shops, and proximity to Lake Windermere, it makes an excellent place to rest and reflect on the drive. I stayed at the Rothay Manor in Ambleside which is a superb hotel and one which I’ll be reporting on in another article.