Exploring The Lake District: A Winter Escape to The Samling
A Debate on National Parks: Is the Lake District the Best?
After a recent newspaper column about words ending in “-ist,” I received several messages from readers haranguing me for admitting I was an “area-ist”. People can get snooty about where they live, and I have long been guilty of writing things like: “Why bother visiting any other national park when we have glorious Dartmoor and Exmoor on our doorstep?”
“You must be mad!” retorted one reader. “Dartmoor and Exmoor are wonderful, but if you want to see real hills and moors, go to the Lake District. And don’t go on about it getting too crowded - it’s empty in winter.”
The Samling
A Luxurious Stay at The Samling Hotel
I was considering this email when someone I know suggested: “Why not sample The Samling? It is one of the most delightful hotels in all of England, let alone the Lake District. It has one of the best views and some of the best food.”
She was right. And of course, the reader was correct in saying the Lake District contains truly magnificent hills and moorlands, not to mention fabulous lakes, and that it is gloriously empty in winter.
Last month, my wife and I drove north for a twin-resort stay in The Lakes, and we enjoyed absolutely every moment of it. We struck vacation-gold with wall-to-wall sunshine—something we certainly did not expect in January.
A Two-Part Lake District Adventure
Our adventure was so enjoyable that I’m dividing my articles into two parts:
This week: A review of our stay at The Samling Hotel and our tour of the southerly Lake District.
Next week: A look at the equally impressive Rothay Manor Hotel in Ambleside and a report on the northern Lake District.
Tarn Hows
It’s worth two articles because I know for a fact that many readers frequently visit England’s most popular national park. During our trip, I met several couples from the South West taking winter breaks in The Lakes.
Military plane over Lake Windermere
The Samling Hotel: A Luxury Retreat Overlooking Lake Windermere
The Samling is an exclusive and luxurious hotel set in a handsome Georgian house overlooking Lake Windermere. Located on a private estate a few hundred feet above the lake, it boasts some of the best panoramic views of England’s largest lake.
Ding room at The Samling
The owners have made the most of these magnificent views by constructing a large glass-walled restaurant, offering guests a breathtaking dining experience. Few establishments in the world provide such a stunning breakfast view—a vast swathe of the national park stretches before you, urging you to explore once you've enjoyed your full-English breakfast.
Michelin-Starred Dining at The Samling
Beneath the restaurant, a state-of-the-art kitchen is where Executive Head Chef Robby Jenks creates extraordinary dishes, earning him a Michelin star.
Robby Jenks
Some West Country food lovers may recognize Robby Jenks, a Tiverton-born chef who trained under Michael Caines at Gidleigh Park before leading prestigious hotels. Now at The Samling, he describes his move as a “dream come true.”
“We try to keep the food as simple as possible and let the ingredients do the work,” he told me in one of the hotel’s cosy lounges. “It’s a progressive style of cooking—always evolving with the seasons and new inspirations from my team.”
Locally Sourced Ingredients & Award-Winning Cuisine
Local ingredients are a priority. Herdwick lamb, renowned for its exceptional quality, is a menu staple. The kitchen also supports local farmers and even grows its own produce when possible.
From Tuesday to Saturday, The Samling’s evening service features Robby Jenks' seven-course tasting menu, though I counted 14 exquisite dishes.
Each course is paired with perfectly matched wines and served by Rebecca Galland, Robby’s eloquent front-of-house partner.
Exploring Tarn Hows & The Lake District's Best Scenic Drives
After indulging in The Samling’s hospitality, we were energised to hike fells, scale waterfalls, and circumnavigate lakes.
Tarn Hows
A must-visit is Tarn Hows, a picturesque lake west of Windermere, nestled in Beatrix Potter country. Owned by the National Trust, the two-mile loop walk around it is one of the loveliest winter strolls I have experienced.
Tarn Hows
For a scenic drive, I recommend taking the eastern road along Coniston Water, which leads through the remote valleys of Ulpha and Bibker Pikes into Eskdale. This wild and remote landscape is one of the Lake District’s hidden gems.
Wild country above Eskdale
Driving Hardknott & Wrynose Passes: A White-Knuckle Adventure
For a thrilling drive, we tackled Hardknott Pass, which ascends the steepest road in England. It was a white-knuckle ride in January, with ice adding an extra challenge. The descent leads into Wrynose Bottom, followed by the climb over Wrynose Pass, another breathtaking drive.
The Wrynose Pass
After the wild highlands, we entered the softer landscape of Little Langdale, passing Skelwith Bridge en route to Ambleside. From there, it was a short drive back to Lake Windermere, concluding our epic road trip.
Below the high south western fells
Final Thoughts: Is the Lake District England's Best National Park?
If you drive this route in any season, you will likely agree with the reader who insisted on the Lake District's superiority. And if you stay at The Samling, you’ll surely agree it’s one of England's most exceptional hotels.
The Samling Hotel: Dining & Stay Information
Robby Jenks' Tasting Menu: £150 per person, with a vegetarian option available
Rooms from £290 B&B
Surrounded by 67 acres of woodlands, meadows, and gardens
Website: www.thesamlinghotel.co.uk
High Road Passes of the Lake District
The Lake District is home to some of England’s highest road passes, offering stunning views but demanding caution in winter.
Top 5 Highest Passes:
Wrynose sloping east
Kirkstone Pass – 1,489 ft (454 m)
Wrynose Pass – 1,281 ft (390 m)
Hardknott Pass – 1,190 ft (362 m)
Honister Pass – 1,167 ft (356 m)
Newlands Pass – 1,093 ft (333 m)
Winter Warning: Snow, ice, and high winds can make these roads treacherous. Preparation and confidence behind the wheel are essential!
