Fighting Food Inflation
Food prices are already rising at an alarming rate. I’ve certainly noticed it after a few weeks abroad. On my return this week I visited a high end supermarket and came out, somewhat shocked, with a half-empty basket. It was the first time I can remember going home to complain how the prices of basic ingredients had soared in just a few weeks.
Later in the week the managing director of a South West flour mill warned me that prices of bread and flour were likely to rise more over the next few months than they have in the 30 years. Then a friend who owns a West Country chippy told me the price of a basic portion of fish and chips was likely to rocket to over £10 in the coming weeks.
That is scary.
Apparently much of the cod and haddock we use in the nation’s favourite dish comes from Russian waters, which explains one part of the price hike. And because Ukraine is one of the world’s biggest suppliers of ingredients like sunflower seeds, the cost of cooking oil has doubled in a month.
Perhaps more alarming is that, between them, the Ukraine and Russia export nearly 30 percent of the world’s wheat. Their biggest customers are to be found in Third World countries and Africa, so there’s going to be an absolute disaster hitting those already hungry people - but there will be a knock-on effect for us too.
All of which leads us to repeat what these pages have said many times before… That buying local is one of the most important things we can do to ensure our own food security going into the future.
Here’s what Bertie Matthews, managing director of Matthews Cotswold Flour told me after explaining that his mills will be less affected than most, simply because they source the vast majority of their wheat from local farms….
“There is going to be a massive increase in the price of flour and bread, caused by the wheat price hitting its highest price ever. 29 percent of the world’s grain exports come from Russia and Ukraine - this is going to have a huge impact on prices - at least another 25 pence on a loaf of bread.
“However, for many food products the gap between industrially farmed, imported produce that destroys the environment and a premium option that supports body and soil health is much less,” says Bertie. “Many consumers will begin to ask why they are buying the rubbish at rapidly increasing prices when, for a few pence more, they can purchase quality flour produced by English farmers who are developing soil health.
“We can only hope for a good crop year to prevent a global food security crisis,” he added. “But we need to look at our own farms for our food security. If you are a commodity mill taking in 600 tonnes per day then this will be tough. At Matthews, 85% of the grain comes from farmers in the Cotswolds - it’s a generational partnership which helps soften the blow of supply and prices for all of our bakers.
“Keeping it local - working with local farming families as we have always done - has never been more important,” concluded Bertie.
Chef Peter Gorton
One of this region’s best known chefs, Peter Gorton, who is also a board member for Food Drink Devon, agrees when it comes to the increasing importance of the buying local during times of high inflation.
“It’s the only way we can assure food security in a troubled world,” says Peter. “It also happens to be a good way of combating the price hikes which are hitting our pickets right now. For example, I buy most of my family’s food at our local farm shop, which happens to be Applejack Barn in Saltash, where 80 percent of the food is local.
“At the moment their local cauliflowers are fantastic - and really big so you will get a couple of meals out of one. If you buy an imported cauliflower it’ll probably have been picked a good five days before and stored in fridge. By time it gets to you it will have lost much of its freshness and goodness. The farm shop cauli’ will probably have been picked the day before, which means it will stay fresher much longer when you get it home. That means there’s likely to be less wastage. You are eating it at its best and you are also avoiding all the food miles.
“At moment all sorts of greens are coming in locally and they go a long way,” Peter aid, warming to his theme. “Take kale and rainbow chard, for example, full of nutrients and very good for you. Great if you were doing bubble-and-squeak. You can also add cauliflower, broccoli and other spring greens. Kids love bubble-and-squeak, which means they are getting their nutrients. And it’s a really substantial dish which means you can, say, cut a chicken breast in half to make it go further.
“It doesn't have to be just the normal spring greens. Yesterday I saw local white sprouting broccoli in Devon, which is delicious. So let’s support our local farmers who are trying to grow stuff that’s a bit more special.
“Fishmongers tell me pricing is going through the roof - so I advise phoning your fishmonger and finding out what’s in season locally. It will be better value. Imported haddock and cod at the moment can fetch £22 a kilo, which is a lot on money. So try other fish like pollock and hake, or go for a pie-mix and batch-cook a number of fish-pies.
“When times are tough, you need to plan ahead,” says Peter. “Most people don’t. But by getting a good deal on something in season and then cooking a large amount to serve in batches, you can lower costs substantially. A big cauliflower will make a whole batch of cauliflower cheese, for example. Cheese sauce freezes wonderfully and protects the watery cauliflower from breaking down. Crumbles also freeze well, so make big batches of either sweet or savoury.”
Peter is a believer in making a little go a long way. “Over the years I have developed a number of sprinkles which are a really effective way of making something cheap and potentially plain become much more delicious to eat. Asian countries have been doing it for centuries - they put fried onions or peanuts on top of plain rices dishes and it really gives them a lift. I use savoury granola for example, baked in the oven with honey, mustard, oats and various seeds. Sprinkle that on a salad and it will really liven it up.
“It’s all about a small pinch going a long way,” concludes Peter.
Which just might become one of the most repeated and useful phrases we will hear over the coming months.
RECIPE from Peter Gorton Consultancy
Lightly Spiced Cauliflower Rice with Coffee, Coconut and Nut Sprinkle
Ingredients – Serves 4
1 large cauliflower, broken into florets and chopped roughly
2 tbsp vegetable oil
150g or 1 large carrot, peeled and grated
1 heaped tsp fresh ginger chopped fine
2 red onions, medium diced
1 red pepper, seeds removed and diced
¼ tsp turmeric
1 tsp paprika
1 tsp curry powder
½ tsp cumin
25g fresh coriander
2 tbsp soy sauce (optional)
½ lime juice
Method
Place the cauliflower and coriander into a food processor, pulse until the cauliflower is like a rice texture.
To cook the cauliflower
Place a large frying pan or wok over a medium heat, add the vegetable oil and allow to get hot. Add the onion, peppers and ginger, cook for a few minutes. Add the spices and continue to cook for 1 minute then add the cauliflower, stir in well. Turn down to a low heat and cook for 5 minutes. Add the lime juice and stir well. Finally add the soy sauce and add a heaped tablespoon of the coffee, coconut sprinkle mixture on top.
Coffee, Coconut, Nut Sprinkles
60g of cashew nuts or nuts of your choice, toasted
30g desiccated coconut, toasted
25g sesame seeds
30g crispy onions (optional)
2 tsp Owens coffee fine grounds
½ tsp chilli flakes
1 tsp local honey
Method
Put all of the ingredients in a food processor and pulse until the desired texture of how you would like your sprinkles. Place in a sealed air tight container.
Chef’s Tip
If you do not have a food processor you can use a grater for the cauliflower and carrot.
The sprinkle works well with salads too.
