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Martin Hesp

Savouring the Delights of the Isle of Man in Winter

Savouring the Delights of the Isle of Man in Winter

It’s an odd sort of question, but it is one people sometimes ponder when considering their holidays. It’s the notion of trying to find somewhere pleasant and refreshingly new, while somehow still retaining all the basics you know and love, such as people speaking English and all the normal stuff like the kind of shops, pubs and restaurants you’re accustomed to. So is it possible to get all the excitement of a foreign holiday without going abroad?

And the answer lies smack in the middle of the Irish Sea. It’s called the Isle of Man, and - a bit like the Channel Isles - it really does have a foreign feel to it even if you are still in a place that is more-or-less part of the UK. The “more-or-less” bit comes from the fact that these places are self-governing - for the most part they have their own set of laws and constitutional guidelines.  

As published in West Magazine

The point is that these semi-independent island states really do feel different, while at the same time being as recognisable as a county shire. 

If you fly into the Isle of Man, for example, you might find yourself on the main road which passes over a place called Fairy Bridge and if you’re on public transport you’ll probably see half the passengers whispering some kind of incantation. That is because Manx men and women are very superstitious - the island is amazingly rich in myth and legend - and the “little people” have a big role to play in the historic culture of the place. I was told that no local worth his or her salt would dream of crossing that bridge without mouthing the words: “Hello Pixies”…

The widespread belief in folklore isn’t entirely surprising because the island is a wild and woolly place in a Game of Thrones or Lord of the Rings kind of way. As such, it is incredibly beautiful. 

If you haven’t been there and you wanted a shorthand description put in distinctly West Country terms, it would be vaguely accurate to describe it as a northern kind of Cornwall, but with bigger hills. There are beaches and high moors - there are busy seaside resorts and hidden villages tucked away in wooded vales - there’s a great deal of agriculture blended with plenty of things for tourists to do. So, a form of sea-bound Cornwall, but with a noticeably northern feel to it.

Before the British Guild of Travel Writers invited me to attend their world-roaming annual general meeting on the island this winter, I’d never given the place much thought. If I did, I guess my shorthand thoughts went something like this… “That’s where crazy blokes belt around racing two-wheeled rockets known as motorbikes and where greedy folk put their dosh to avoid taxes.  And it’s where questionable folk hang out after they’ve sold our Government dodgy PPE. Surely, it’s nothing but a corner of England, Scotland or Ireland that somehow found itself removed from the mainland coast?”

If that is what I lazily and silently felt about the Isle of Man, then I’d like to apologise. It is a truly gorgeous and fascinating part of the United Kingdom and everyone ought to come here and visit the place at least once. It really is an island of fabulous beaches, impressive mountains and lovely countryside. And it is a place that has more ancient culture and folklore in its little island finger than most large countries do in all their broad acres. 

I particularly loved the fact that it boasts miles and miles of truly scenic heritage railways - and that it enjoys a local food scene which is second to none. 

But for me - and I reckon for many other Brits who might go there for the first time - there is the surprise of discovery. The thrill of finding that a place that you’ve heard about all your life can be far, far more interesting, scenic, and welcoming than you’d ever previously dreamed it could be.

Take those scenic heritage railways, for instance. Remarkably, the island boasts, not one, but three… the Isle of Man’s Steam Railway, the Manx Electric Railway and the Snaefell Mountain Railway. 

Indeed, it turns out the island has a long-standing tradition of railway transport - and the Manx Electric Railway has a place in history all of its own. It is one of the oldest electric railways in the world. Established in 1893, it has been operating continuously for over a century, making it not only a crucial part of the island’s transport heritage but also a significant attraction for tourists and railway enthusiasts.

Weaving approximately 17 miles over hill and dale, the Manx Electric Railway runs along the eastern coast of the island from the capital, Douglas, to the communities of Laxey and Ramsey. This route showcases some of the most spectacular coastal and countryside views the island has to offer, making the view out of the window an attraction in itself. We were fortunate to be offered a special one-off winter service from Laxey to Ramsey.

Did I say Laxey? Well, no one could pass this place without visiting the biggest waterwheel in the world. The Laxey Wheel is the island’s most famous structure and its renown is well deserved. The vast edifice is a towering testament to the ingenuity of Victorian engineering. It also looks, as an artist friend of mine pointed out, like some kind of AI illustration of a waterwheel gone slightly wrong. That might be because its leat runs down the valley to the wheel’s base rather than down over the upper structure, as in most Westcountry waterwheel systems. The water is then introduced, under pressure, to a vast stone cylinder which looms to one-side - i.e. the structure, which has a circular staircase running up its outer wall. Visitors can climb this staircase - and I did, which is why I can say it is definitely NOT for anyone who suffers from vertigo. 

The Laxey Wheel, with a diameter of 72 feet and a breadth of six feet, was certainly a marvel of its time. It could pump over 250 gallons of water a minute from the nearby mine-workings more than 600 feet below ground, a fact which allowed it to play a crucial role in enabling the miners to reach deeper in their search for valuable minerals.

Down in the south of the island, Castletown narrow gauge railway is another must-see. As many will know, narrow gauge railways are often used for mountainous or intricate landscapes where the construction of a standard gauge line would be more complicated and costly. This toy-town line’s story dates back to the late 1800s, a period when the Isle of Man was developing its transportation infrastructure to boost tourism and provide essential services to remote areas. The line terminates at lovely Port Erin with its wonderful beaches, located way out on the south-west corner of the isle.

Along with my fellow travel writers, I was staying in the IoM capital, Douglas, which is a charming coastal town somewhat reminiscent of those wonderful “kiss-me-quick - we do like to be beside the seaside” days of yore. The place has all the modern shops, restaurants and other facilities you’d expect in any busy British town - and it has a quite magnificent seafront, which in summer, boasts the famous horse-drawn tramway. It also boasts the main island museum, which I’d heartily recommend even if you don’t particularly like museums. We spent a truly fascinating afternoon there learning about all those myths and legends and about the tough, rough and, it has to be said, picturesque lifestyles enjoyed or endured by islanders down the centuries. 

My other recommendation in Douglas would be a very good pub called the Quid’s Inn. There’s a turnstile at the main door and you really do have to put in a pound coin in order to gain entry. Which sounds a bit much, until you reach the bar and realise the excellent ales are far, far cheaper than a pint would cost here in the mainland UK.

But of course, the main thing to do when visiting any island is to get out and about to see as much of that distant sea-bound landscape as you possibly can. On the Isle of Man this is relatively easy to do, thanks to the transport department’s Go Explore cards. These are available for one, three, five or seven days for adults and children (alternatively, there’s a family card for a reduced rate for two adults and up to three children). A single adult Go Explore card costs £19 for one day or £56 for the seven-day - and it is well worth the money because there is an excellent public transport system covering most of the island   

There’s also a Go Explore Heritage card which allows both unlimited travel on all Isle of Man Transport scheduled bus and rail services AND admission to all Manx National Heritage sites (such as Douglas Museum and the Laxey Wheel) - available for five days only, this costs a bargain £63 per adult.

As I’ve said, this is magnificent island. The self-governing British Crown dependency boasts fabulous rugged coastlines, vast rural landscapes, wild moorlands, a surprising number of medieval castles, and much else. It is an absolute jewel - and certainly a wonderful surprise for anyone who thought it was just the home of mainlanders wanting to avoid tax, and leather-clad men who like nothing more than riding motorcycles at suicidal speeds. 

Speaking of which, we haven’t even mentioned the world-famous Isle of Man TT races here. They are, as everyone knows, one of the most exciting and perhaps perilous road races to be held anywhere on the planet - but unless you’re into very high speeds and motorcycles it is advisable to avoid the island during early June when tens of thousands of visitors come from all around the globe. Apart from the vast crowds, many of the roads are closed and you will not find any kind of accommodation vacancy for love or money.   

I am told the island goes into full party-mode when the TT is on and I bet it’s a lot of fun. But if you want to see a very special place, boasting wonderful scenery, friendly locals, wonderful attractions and great food and drink - and you want it to feel like you’re abroad without actually leaving the UK - then the Isle of Man should come close to the top of your list. 

FACT FILE 

To find out more about exploring the Isle of Man visit https://www.visitisleofman.com/  

 

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