Grenada

It’s pouring with rain here in South West England and for a moment I found myself dreaming of the Caribbean - and one island in particular came to mind because it’s a long time since I was there - although I saw it one fine day not that long ago from afar…

Grenada is largish island and just about every acre of it is sensationally beautiful. Moreover, it has not been spoilt by the kind of in-your-face tourism that has overtaken so many of those distant isles.

 Of course, as old Caribbean hands will know, some of the less well known destinations are like that because they do not lend themselves to the visitor experience - in other words some are a little less than friendly - others can be downright dodgy.

Apart from being fantastically scenic, the reason I'd recommend Grenada to a first timer wanting to experience an authentic taste of the region is that it is wonderfully friendly and relaxed. Which begs the question why it hasn’t been invaded by massive hotel chains offering cheap all-inclusive deals - and also has you wondering how long it will stay unspoilt.

The large, mountainous 133 square-mile island was a British Colony from 1763 to 1950, so English is spoken by the 110,000 residents - but it's the more recent history that may have, for a short time, slowed Grenada's development as a tourism destination.

Not that the US intervention, which made headlines in 1983, is in any way evident today – the political shenanigans which needed a quick emergency fix more than 30 years ago are distant history.  

St George - island capital

As for the hurricanes which can blight much of this region, Grenada is south of the main risk zone and so for the most part remains happily becalmed – although a bad one did hit in 2004 and you can still see evidence of it today. The agricultural industries, including the all important nutmeg and other spice groves which gave the place its Spice Isle nickname, were badly hit and there is much replanting going on across the rain-forested mountain slopes today.

You can find out more about the fascinating story of nutmeg if you visit somewhere like De La Grenade, which is a business that specialises in producing value-added items based on the fragrant flavour of the actual flesh of that remarkable fruit. For example, they make a delicious syrup from the material which surrounds the nutmeg and its mace – a fruit flesh which is normally discarded.

I once learned about this and much else besides in the company of charming and informative Arnold Hopkin, who owned - may still own - the Blue Horizons Garden Resort.

Arnold is or was a great expert on all things Grenadian – indeed he drew us up an excellent itinerary which we followed in our four-wheel drive hire car to all corners of the green and sceptred isle. Blue Horizons, which boasts luxurious accommodation in 32 cottages, nestles among lush tropical gardens that are home to 21 species of indigenous birds and is situated on a hillside just behind Grand Anse Beach, which is the largest sandy strand on the island.

Guests at the Blue Horizons can gain access to the shore by walking through the five-star Spice Island Beach Resort which is owned by Arnold’s brother, Sir Royston - and yes, if budget allowed you might prefer to be right on the beach in this most luxurious of establishments. But we enjoyed the laid-back atmosphere at Blue Horizons at a much lower cost, though did manage to book a memorable multi-course dinner at Spice Island’s beach-side restaurant.

Grand Anse Beach is located at the southern end of a large bay and across the blue waters you can see the capital, St George’s.  This fascinating, busy, town is well worth a visit - it is friendly and exudes the authentic charm of Caribbean life in all its steep streets.

The market square is the frenetic and happening place – loud and slightly anarchic, you have to be ready for the hustle because local traders don’t see so many tourists since a posh new air-conditioned cruise-liner centre was built across the road. Apparently the cruise-folk don’t bother coming into town for a taste of Caribbean authenticity now they can buy a few souvenirs in the of the cruise terminal. 

A stall-holder showed me where I could buy a fresh made roti (a kind of Caribbean curry-filled pasty) then let me take her seat - and while I dined, she kept the more pushy hawkers at bay. 

I’d also recommend a quick visit to the island’s museum which you’ll find in the heart of town – not only will you learn about the early indigenous inhabitants who have long since disappeared, but you’ll see evidence of Grenada’s many and various colonisations. There’s also a small and charming restaurant serving local food attached the place – though you’d never find it passing by on the street.

After a couple of days acclimatising at Blue Horizons we headed north up the west coast. Half way up the long and winding road we made a detour so that we could hire a local guide and hike up to Fountainbleu Falls, high in the rainforest. It was hot and sweaty work, but fascinating if only for the amazing plants along the way – a sort of long, near vertical, stroll through Kew Garden’s hot house.

Our eventual destination that day was the very tip of the island, where an English couple called Philip and Annie Clift built and developed the dreamy Petite Anse resort.

What can I say about this boutique hotel set in beautiful tropical gardens with sweeping views over the Caribbean to the neighbouring island of Carriacou and the Grenadines? Well, put it like this – when my novel writing finally pays dividends with some kind of Hollywood deal (in my dreams) then Petite Anse may be one of the locations I’ll escape to when the British winter gets too cold and wearisome. 

The views, the style and charm, the ambience, the sounds of the rainforest, the crash of the warm sea, the cooling scented inter-island breeze…

No, I must stop Caribbean dreaming and return south, via the pretty little town of Sauteurs which is where the last of those poor indigenous folk called Carib Indians chose, en-masse, to fling themselves from a cliff-top rather than become enslaved by Spanish invaders. 

Our journey back down the island took us to the east coast, past chocolate factories and rum distilleries – and at the totally untouristy seaside town of Grenville we pointed the car inland to climb over the central mountain range and its Grand Etang Forest Reserve.

At 2,500 feet you might think you’d come across a cool breeze – especially up there in the high forests where lakes fill old volcano craters – but no, this is the tropics and in these latitudes even mountains stay hot. 

Back down in the south – which is the most populated and developed part of this mainly rural island, we stayed at the True Blue Bay resort, which is undoubtedly a great favourite with Grenada’s big sailing community. It’s a comfortable and friendly place and obviously ideal for those with chartered boats parked in the adjacent marina.